Skip to main content



Green kyllinga, Kyllinga brevifolia , is

a weedy sedge that is becoming a

major problem in turf and ornamental

plantings in California. The genus

Kyllinga consists of about 40 species

that are distributed worldwide in

subtropical and warm temperate

regions. Green kyllinga has been

reported as a weed problem from

Florida across the Southeastern United

States into Arizona, California, and

Hawaii. In California it occurs from San

Diego to the Sacramento Valley. Green

kyllinga is believed to have originated

in Asia and was reported as a weed

in California more than 50 years ago.

However, it has developed into a major

problem for turfgrass and landscape

managers during the last 10 to 15 years.

Green kyllinga is sometimes confused

with purple or yellow nutsedge, but

its growth habits, reproduction, and

morphology are different.

IDENTIFICATION AND

LIFE CYCLE

Green kyllinga (Figure 1) is a perennial

plant that grows best in moist or wet

areas that receive full sun, but it can

survive some shade and drying once

established. Green kyllinga grows well

in warm weather from April through

October. It is dormant in winter but

remains green in warm climates where

freezing doesn’t occur. It can yellow

in the winter but doesn’t turn brown

when it goes dormant. When left

unmowed, green kyllinga can reach a

height of about 15 inches but will adapt

and grow in a prostrate manner if

mowed. The plant produces a network

of numerous underground stems

(rhizomes) and can root and send out

new leaves at each stem node. If green

kyllinga rhizomes are removed and

chopped into pieces, new plants can

be produced from each node or stem

section. Rhizomes in soil will begin

to produce long, narrow leaves that

are 1 to more than 5 inches long as

temperatures rise in the spring.

Green kyllinga stands out in turf due

to its different texture and growth rate

and is easily identified by its flower

stalk. Flowering usually occurs from

May to October, but it can occur earlier

in warm locations. Flower stalks are

triangular in cross section and 2 to 8

inches long. The stalks terminate in a

globular inflorescence (flower head)

that is green and about 3/8 inch in

diameter. Directly below the flower is

a group of three leaves that radiates

out from the stalk. There are 30 to 75

spikelets within each flower, and each

of these is capable of producing one

seed. A mature plant can produce more

than 100 flowers within a growing

season and up to 5,000 seeds.

The seed of the green kyllinga plant

is highly viable and contributes

significantly to the spread of this

plant. It has an oval shape, is flat in

cross section, and is about 1/8 inch long

and 1/16 inch wide. Seed germination

occurs at or very near the soil surface.

Burying seed as little as 1/3 inch below

the soil surface reduced germination

twelvefold in one Arizona study.

The tan-colored seeds germinate

when soil moisture is adequate and

soil temperatures reach about 65°F.

Germination continues throughout

the summer. Seedling growth is slow

initially, and plants might require

several weeks to become established.

Once established, green kyllinga forms

a vigorous system of rhizomes that

allows lateral spread and production

of new plants. It can survive and even

flower and produce seed at mowing

heights of 3/4 inch.

Green kyllinga can be confused with

yellow or purple nutsedge because

they grow in similar locations. Often

green kyllinga can be recognized by

its habit of growing in continuously

enlarging patches similar to rhizomous

turfgrasses. Yellow and purple

nutsedge appear more commonly

as individual plants and have much

wider leaves than the finer-bladed

green kyllinga. Also, green kyllinga

has a small, round seed head whereas

nutsedges have an open spikelet. The

flower and rhizomes of the green

kyllinga plant and the absence of

under

ground tubers make it easy to

distinguish from nutsedges (Table 1).

IMPACT

Green kyllinga can be a major weed

problem for turfgrass and landscape

managers. In turf it forms a weak sod

that gives poor footing for athletic

fields and golf courses. Although green

kyllinga is most often a problem in

bermudagrass, it has been found in

cool-season turf species as well. Green

kyllinga has a texture and color that

varies from normal turfgrass species

and reduces the aesthetic quality of the

turf. Also, green kyllinga grows faster

than most turfgrass species, which

gives infested turfgrass an undulating

or irregular surface in as little as two

days after mowing.

Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals

G reen K yllinGa

Figure 1. Mature green kyllinga plant.

Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program December 2011

P EST N OTES Publication 7459

December 2011 Green Kyllinga

◆ 2 of 4 ◆

Once a few plants become established

in turfgrass or ornamental areas,

spread can be rapid. In warm weather,

rhizomes can grow by more than 1

inch per day, forming thick mats in

just a few weeks. Mowing, foot traffic,

and cultivation spread both seed and

rhizomes. This allows the production

of new plants and hastens spread.

MANAGEMENT

The best management approach

is to prevent new infestations by

excluding and monitoring for the

weed. Thoroughly clean mowers and

cultivation equipment before moving

from infested to weed-free areas. If

solitary plants of green kyllinga are

found, they should be grubbed out

(i.e., remove the entire plant, roots

and all) and the area monitored for

several months to ensure removal was

complete.

When green kyllinga infests

ornamental plantings, it forms a dense

mat that crowds out desirable species

and reduces the vigor of those plants

that survive. Because of the extensive

rhizome system in established stands,

hand pulling or hoeing to remove

green kyllinga usually is futile unless

done repeatedly over a long period

of time. Digging out plants and

surrounding soil with a shovel is

likely the best approach for removing

rhizomes, although plant removal

can be very expensive and not always

successful. Once established green

kyllinga will continue to spread unless

control measures are taken.

Turfgrass and ornamental areas

should be well maintained to promote

maximum vigor and make these

plantings as competitive as possible to

hinder invasion by the weed. Dense

turfgrass and ornamentals will shade

the soil surface, making establishment

of green kyllinga seedlings difficult.

Irrigation systems should be adjusted

and managed to eliminate wet

conditions that favor green kyllinga.

Turfgrass

Controlling green kyllinga in turfgrass

requires a combination of control

procedures. Wet or overwatered areas

in turfgrass provide ideal habitat

for a green kyllinga invasion. To

reduce the chance of invasion or slow

the invasion into turfgrass, don’t

overwater the turf. If low areas stay

wet, improve drainage or reduce water

applications in that area.

Early grubbing of solitary infestations

has been successful when practiced

diligently. Spot spraying isolated

plants with glyphosate can be helpful,

but the turfgrass also is killed, leaving

open areas that allow reestablishment

of kyllinga or invasion of other weed

species. The open spots should be

overseeded or patched with sod to

establish a vigorous turf.

Mowing and nitrogen fertilization also

affect the growth of green kyllinga. In

one study on hybrid bermudagrass,

low mowing (i.e., 1 inch compared

to 2 inches) resulted in increased

green kyllinga seed germination and

growth in established turf provided

with adequate nitrogen. However, in

newly established turf where there

was significantly more green kyllinga

Table 1. Distinguishing Characteristics of Green Kyllinga and Yellow Nutsedge.

Green kyllinga Yellow nutsedge

Growth habit

continuously enlarging patches, almost as a tur f usually individual plants or, when young, connected widely by rhizomes

Seed head/flower

small, round open spikelet

Below- ground propagation method

rhizomes; no tubers tubers

J. K. Clark J. K. Clark

J. M. DiTomaso J. K. Clark

J. K. Clark J. K. Clark

December 2011 Green Kyllinga

◆ 3 of 4 ◆

present, the mowing height didn’t

have as great an effect, and additions

of nitrogen resulted in increased turf

cover and less spread of green kyllinga.

Unfortunately, eradication wasn’t

possible with any mowing height or

nitrogen rate.

Chemical control of green kyllinga

may be achieved with preemergent

herbicides applied before the seeds

germinate, with selective postemergent

herbicides for established plants or

with a combination of preemergent and

postemergent herbicide treatments. The

use of herbicides can be very effective if

combined with cultural methods such

as water management and exclusion of

green kyllinga from turf and landscape

areas.

Preemergent herbicides have been

successful in limiting germination of

green kyllinga seeds. These herbicides

should be applied in spring before

soil temperatures reach 60°F to limit

germination in late spring and early

summer. Preemergent materials that

are effective include benefin, bensulide,

dithiopyr, pendimethalin, and

prodiamine.

Postemergent herbicides can limit

growth of green kyllinga. Herbicide

products available for green kyllinga

and plants in the sedge family contain

halosulfuron, imazosulfuron, MSMA,

or trifloxysulfuron. Be sure to select a

product that is safe for your existing

turfgrass species. The best control has

been obtained when halosulfuron is

applied in two sequential applications.

Make the second halosulfuron

application when kyllinga plants show

signs of recovering.

Even when herbicides are used for

control, be sure the turfgrass has

adequate drainage to reduce the

potential for proliferation by this weed.

If turfgrass areas are to be completely

renovated with new turf from seed, sod,

or stolons, the existing plant material—

including green kyllinga—can be

treated with a nonselective herbicide

such as glyphosate prior to planting.

Ornamental Landscapes

There are few options for the control

of green kyllinga in ornamental

landscape plantings. Prevention is

very important. Hand removal or spot

spraying of solitary plants as soon

as they are found will save time and

money in the long run. Cultivation or

hand hoeing must be done carefully,

because hoeing can break rhizomes

into smaller pieces and “transplant”

them to new areas. This is particularly

true if irrigation follows hoeing.

Mulching with landscape fabrics (e.g.,

geotextile mulches) can be effective

if fabrics are overlapped and no light

is allowed to penetrate to the soil.

Geotextile mulches combined with

hand removal should provide adequate

control of green kyllinga in perennial

planting beds. Use a polypropylene or

polyester fabric or black polyethylene

(plastic tarp) to block all plant growth.

Wood chips or bark should be placed

on top to inhibit breakdown by UV

light. Plant-derived mulches (i.e.,

organic mulches) alone might not

effectively control kyllinga, because it

will probably grow through the mulch.

Preemergent herbicides such as

oryzalin and pendimethalin can be

used to limit seedling germination

in sites where their use is permitted.

Make applications in April before soil

temperatures reach 60°F. Preemergent

herbicides will be of little benefit if

estab

lished kyllinga plants are present.

Postemergent herbicides containing

halosulfuron are registered for use

in established ornamental plantings.

Spot treatment with glyphosate can

reduce green kyllinga’s growth, but

don’t let the spray come in contact with

desirable plants or injury will result.

REFERENCES

Bryson, C. T., et al. 1997. Kyllinga, A

genus of neglected weeds in the

continental United States. Weed Tech.

11(8):838–842.

Kawabata, O., R. K. Nishimoto, and C.

Tang. 1994. Interference of two kyllinga

species ( Kyllinga nemoralis and Kyllinga

brevifolia ) on bermudagrass ( Cynodon

dactylon ) growth. Weed Tech. 8(1):3–86.

Lowe, D. B., T. Whitwell, L. B. McCarty,

and W. C. Bridges. 2000. Mowing and

nitrogen influence green kyllinga

(Kyllinga brevifolia ) infestation in Tifway

bermudagrass ( Cynodon dactylon X C.

transvaalensis ) turf. Weed Tech. 14(3):471–

475.

McElroy, J. S., F. H. Yelverton, and L. S.

Warren Jr. 2005. Control of green and

false-green kyllinga ( Kyllinga brevifolia

and Kyllinga gracillima ) in golf course

fairways and roughs. Weed Tech. 19(4):

824–829.

Molin, W. T., et al. 1997. Green kyllinga

(Kyllinga brevifolia ): germination and

herbicidal control. Weed Sci. 45(4):546–

550. v

December 2011 Green Kyllinga

◆ 4 of 4 ◆

AUTHORS: D. A. Shaw , UC Cooperative Extension, San Diego Co.; C. A. Wilen , UC Statewide IPM Program, San Diego Co.; D. W. Cudney , Botany and Plant Sciences emeritus, UC Riverside; and C. L. Elmore , Plant Sciences emeritus, UC Davis.

TECHNICAL EDITOR: M. L. Flint

EDITOR: M. L. Fayard

ILLUSTRATION: Fig. 1 , D. W. Cudney.

This and other Pest Notes are available atwww.ipm.ucdavis.edu.

For more information, contact the University ofCalifornia Cooperative Extension office in your county. See your telephone directory for addresses and phone numbers, or visit http://ucanr.org/ce.cfm.

WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original, labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. Pesticides applied in your home and landscape can move and contaminate creeks, rivers, and oceans. Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially gardens containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash or pour pesticides down the sink or toilet. Either use the pesticide according to the label, or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste Collection site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container disposal and for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of empty containers by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such a manner that they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways.

ANR NONDISCRIMINATION AND AFFIRMATIVE ACTION POLICY STATEMENT The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities. The complete nondiscrimination policy statement can be found at http://ucanr.org/sites/anrstaff/files/107734.doc. Inquiries regarding the university’s equal employment opportunity policies may be directed to Linda Marie Manton, Affirmative Action Contact, University of California, Davis, Agriculture and Natural Resources, One Shields Avenue, Davis, CA 95616, (530) 752-0495.

Produced by UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management ProgramUniversity of California, Davis, CA 95616

Universit y of California scientists and other qualified professionals have anonymously peer reviewed this publication for technical accuracy. The ANR Associate Editor for Urban Pest Management managed this review process. To simplify information, trade names of products have been used. No endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. This material is partially based upon work supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), Integrated Pest Management.

x

Please add some content in Animated Sidebar block region. For more information please refer to this tutorial page:

Add content in animated sidebar